The designing of cars
This was done in my spare time. I would recommend it as nothing more than something to do in your spare time. The "final useable" ideas for a body design there is the spoiler/bumper. I am using my work on the doors to show a progression. The final door design I have seen yet. The rest is just some things that I have seen that should make you aware that there can be more than you have seen.
These are what I started out trying to make a poor copy of. Still on the street it would be something.
At 15 years of age I was given a 9 year old car that was the old family car a 1960 Dodge Matador. The engine was a 361 cubic engine with 10 to 1 compression the only thing holding it back was a two barrel carburetor and single exhaust. The Matador's transmission's reverse did not work. This was the old cast iron torqueflite they were known for breaking the reverse/ high gear band. I was to take the transmission out so that it could be taken down to the tech school to be fixed.
In looking the construction of the car I discovered that the engine and transmission were on a separate subframe with the front suspension. Dad in the mean time decided that the Matador had rusted out to much to be saved. I had pulled out the front sub frame with the engine and transmission. All I needed to do next was to take out the rear end with the leaf springs still attached. I had all the major mechanical parts for a car. I could cut off the back of the leaf springs and just use helper coils they sold for cars with old dead springs or etc.. I took off all the parts I figured I would need. I now could make my own car. The rest of the Matador was dragged out of the building for the scrap man to pick up. The transmission was removed and taken down to the Tech School for repair.
The front frame of a 1960 Chrysler the Dodge has this part made into a separate frame.
This separate subframe is what I will have to work with plus engine, transmission and steering gear. The four YELLOW areas are where the body mounted to the subframe. The bolts heads were about 1 inch in size, if I remember right. It was all I could do to break them loose with a bar. The BLUE shaded area is the engine motor mounts. The RED is the back end mounts of the torsion bars. (This is will be my why I will choose torsion bars for my tank design. Since the subframe at the this point is not welded to the body it is a much more massive structure.) There are two sets of adjustments one and the back end and the other at the front that you can not see in this picture. With both adjusted as far as they will go it will still take my body weight to get it off of the rubber at end of stroke. This means that the front end must have at least another 300 added to it to function with the existing torsion bars as they are. I could put some longer bolts on the back to get to allow me to have a lighter front end. This would take some additional work to unload the torsion bars and put on the new bolts but it could be done. The outside end of the YELLOW area was where I was originally going to weld on the rest of the frame for the car. This would go back about 3 ft. beyond the rear cross member (The area between the RED marks.) This is then where the rear end assembly would be welded on. The rearend needed to have a full travel so the rear member could not go just straight across. The area for the torque converter, transmission and torque tube back to the rearend then would have to be excluded from the inside of the car. The sheet metal for the floor the would have to be cut and small angle iron welded on and a frame box welded on to form the firewall floorboard.
When the weather gets nice I will start looking for parts. The wheels are 14 inch and the tires are G78 14. If I went with little 13 inch wheels with G70s or 60s I could bring it down by as much as 4 inches. I am trying to get as low as I can on this car design. The front subframe that started with is holding the design back but it would still be ok. The wheels are 14 inch and the tires are G78 14. If I went with little 13 inch wheels with G70s or 60s I could bring it down by as much as 4 inches. I am trying to get as low as I can on this car design. The front subframe that started with is holding the design back but it would still be ok. The whole thing should be less that a 1000 dollars. While I am doing this in study hall I am getting teased for my efforts.
The Frame At That Time
This is the first frame design for the first car. I later when it came down to it, I did not trust it. But I still did not have any idea about what it would be besides a car with a body on it. It would have been right about 2000 pounds and had 300 horse power with out building the engine. The estimates for welding were below 300 dollars (rods and material no labor) and I will have 60 dollars in the transmission. I will sit in study hall with a J. C. Whitney Catalog and layout the dash. Where the gauges go. The transmission has a push button control for selecting the gears. Where can I put this so that it will look right.
The front spoiler/bumper still may show up on a advanced aerodynamic road design.
This was the simple box I first design little more then a simple box with a pair of spoilers on it. The back spoiler was the first one on I put on to keep the back end on the road at high speed like the race cars. The design of the front one was arrived in stages. First as a spoiler, then as a spoiler and a bumper and then lastly as a spoiler and safety bumper. It started from the question. What would happen if I should hit a person with this front end or another car. The spoiler would rotate around till it's top is vertical and it was to be spring loaded by the horizontal members. I had the springs for this already.
Safety And Nothing Goes Smoothly, Check Everything, Be Careful
The generator, coil, distributor were moved in case the car body had come loose and fallen on the engine and sub-frame. School was out now and the transmission came back. So far only $60 only had been spent on the transmission, $25 on the come a long to wrench the car up so I could pull the engine/transmission and the subframe out, and a couple of dollars on the 1 1/8 inch socket to separate the frame from the car body. Before I could go any further I needed to do something to show I could finish this project. I decided to put together the minimum wiring harness so that I could start the engine, charge the battery etc. I had never even done a tune up. So, a long with the transmission put the generator, coil, distributor and the starter back on the engine. I hook all the wires up to different parts but I did not have a connector for the back of the ignition switch so that just had the wires forced through the holes in the tabs. The wires were all large enough to handle the load if and when other loads were added. I had all the wires laying out loose on the frame. The steel gas line came out of the subframe and a piece of black rubber hose ran down into the gas can. I sat down on the back of the sub-frame where the ignition switch was at and picked up the switch and turned key. Nothing! I looked it all over went back and turned the key again. Boom! Flames shot out of the carburetor about 3 feet. I pulled every wire loose that I had hooked up. Dad came back to see what he had heard. I was still sitting there with the switch in my hand. He said I had better ask if the students down at the Tech School could wire it up. I figured out what I did but it was still going down to the Tech School. If anything had went wrong I could seriously injured and I had taken enough flak that would be the end of this project. I had earlier had someone helping me and when everyone found out what I was doing they made fun of me. They picked on him to, so I told him I would finish it myself. I had the firing order backwards. There was a pipe with a loop on both ends and that was wired to the subframe to pull it around with. Dad will tow it down to the Tech School when they can get a chance to work on. They hooked up the wiring it would now be possible to hook up everything else through the switch.
The Shape Of The Car Will Lead To The Following Frame
The front subframe engine and transmission weighed at least 1200 pound. The rearend 400 plus pounds, this left was weight to much weight on the front compared to the back end. So the frame around the passenger compartment and reared should be very strong. There were two things that made it impossible to rationalize that the first frame was good enough The sub-frame was made for a 3800 pound car so metal that took over from there seemed to small. The second was welding my back ground, that of carpentry I understood strength of materials but welds if done right were supposed to be as strong as the steel itself. To fully show the second frame there should be three levels of the overhead view. The middle set of lines between the wheels in the overhead are for the hump for the transmission and the drive shaft. There is a another set at the floor level. The lines for the top of hump are also the middle line in the side view. This was something that I did not want to break. The frame design with a spoiler as a roll bar is very much like that of a stock car. They at that time would strip the inside of the body out and install a frame of about 2 inch tubing. This was so the stock car would have its strength up around the driver not in the floor of the car. The gas tank on a stock car is within that frame. Even when told that the welds would be as strong as the rest of the steel I still had my reservations. This was do to my lack of experience at that time.
What I needed now was a four-barrel carburetor and a manifold and the front part at least of the exhaust. The 383 and 361 both used the same external parts the only real difference is the bore. The bore on the 361 is 4.13 inches and bore on the 383 is 4.25 inches. The 4.13 inch bore is the bore the 413 cubic inch will have while the 426 cubic engine will have the 4.25 inch bore. The 361 and the 383 have a 3.38 inch stroke and the 413 and 426 have 3.75 inch stroke. (Just to finish this part I will add th 440 had a bore of 4.32 inches.) There was car that had speedometer that I would have liked to use but I never found one. Small orange rectangles came up for ever five miles an hour fast you were going. It was very easy to read while watch the road. I would still have to see if I could use just some of it and mount it on my dash. I was now off to the junk yards to find what I needed and see what else was out there. The part that I was looking for were 10 years old at the time so it was not what the junkyard guy was keeping track of any more. So I could just roam the yards looking to see what all the old cars had on them.
They were quite a jump from the inline flatheads that they replaced.
This is how I found out about the old hemis, not the 426 the old 392, 354 and 331. I looked into what they had in the manuals on the different engines. There were a lot of 354 and 331 in the junk yards but I did not see any 392. The gentleman who ran the gas station down on the highway retire and he had an old Dodge Red Ram with a Hemi and a three speed clutch with an overdrive and the first of the torque converters. (If you do not believe you will have to look it up. There were a lot of odd starts to the automatic transmission.) The whole combination was interesting so I decided to drive it around for awhile and then I wanted to keep the engine and transmission.
Someone else had a 354 cubic inch engine in a 1955 Dodge with a two speed automatic transmission he sold it to me for $15. I tried to bring the oil pressure up by changing the oil and using a heavier weight. It did not have much power so I decided the old oil must have ruined the rings. So I did not put a new oil pump in the 354 I would just drive it then take all the parts off it I could use. Then grandfather no longer wanted the old 1964 Dodge with the 318 cubic inch engine he had been driving because Grandmother had stopped driving. I will keep the 318 and the transmission as a backup till after I decide that the Hemis and the 361 are enough. Then one of the relatives will take it to run errands on the farm. This is 5 cars and I am still just 16. By eighteen the count will be 7. With the last two being a 1967 Dodge Monaco 4 door with a 383 and a 1967 Dodge Polara 2 door with a 383 in it. I will start to measure everything from the distance from the bottom of the seat to the floor to leg room etc..
Till I found a 392 out by Utica still in the Chrysler New Yorker the transmission was broken the same way on the Dodge. In fact they were the same transmission. The guy at the junkyard wanted $200 dollars if he took out the 392 engine or $100 for the car as it set with two tires missing. This was a remarkable engine in it's time and the 392 was a very important dragster engine long after they stopped making it. The 392 had a 4 inch bore and a 3.90 inch stroke The valves were 2 inch intakes and 2 inch exhaust. The 392 was supposed to be 345 horse power. The problem was that 392 tore up the transmissions and the 8 3/4 inch rear ends that were made at that time. Father and a neighbor helped tow it home father drove and the neighbor watched me in the New Yorker to see that I was alright. The transmission locked up halfway home and I had to get under the car and take out the driveshaft. No problem the Dodge's transmission is the same. The New Yorker was put in the lean-to in back of the garage. Now I could compare how the engines and transmissions were mounted with everything in place.
Along with the automatic transmission and the over head valve engine this will also see the first time the bore will be larger then the stroke. Chrysler will stay with the Hemis from 1953 to 1958, except for the 1955 Windsor. Dodge, Plymouth and Desoto will both stop the use of the Hemi before the 392 comes out. The cast iron torqueflite has one feature that bridged a gap between manual transmissions and automatic transmission. The cast iron torqueflite had front and rear pumps the front pump was driven by the engine and the rear was driven by the output shaft. This allowed the car to be pushed or pull started. The cast iron torqueflite will be replaced by a aluminum body torqueflite in 1964. The aluminum torqueflite can not directly mounted to a pre 1964 engine. In fact the parts for a pre 1964 engine are different then one made after. The engines will change too at this time and the Hemi will make it's reappearance in the form of the 426 Hemi. If looking through the old Hot Rod magazines at the dragster and they say it is a Hemi but they do not call it 426 Hemi it is probably a 392. I saw an old Chrysler parked at an abandoned sand pit and went over to look at it. I popped the hood no Hemi, an engine I had never seen. There only one way to answer the question if the owners manual was still in the glove box. The 1955 Windsor that Chrysler did not put a Hemi in had a debored Hemi block with a polyspherical (The valves not in the same plane.). The engine was supposedly according to an article in Hot Rod have been the king of the short track. The reason was that it supposedly put out 800 to 900 horse power at 8000 to 9000 R.P.M. out of 301 cubic inch air breathing. That even if it off by 50% would still be in class by itself. The setup was sprung tappets with rollers, dual valve springs and 8 weber carburetor each feeding a cylinder.
This is the last of the engines I will bring up now except for the 230 and 250 Pontiac. It will be covered at the time I owned several and took one apart that I was going to cut up so I could do the best blue print job I could do on the other engines. I plan a head were they before the start of the anti-pollution laws hit?
This was the basic frame design for the next couple of cars.
The difference in the frame here is in the removal of the top outside member. The top line between the two wheels is the top of the hump for the transmission and drive shaft.
This is the first design that would have had doors.
I was working with the idea than I could bend the steel but not stretch it. The original experiments for this were done in study hall by bending and folding sheets of paper.
The hood area laid out, then the sides folded down and then the area for the wheels could be cut out. The nose then could be bent down the extra material over the wheels being a flare for over the wheels. This by matching the flare over wheels to the curve of the fenders ( ) on the sides of the car. The next design was more ambitious it would involve making a wooden model. The wood was in the form of 1 inch x2 inches x8 inches, that wood be pieced together on a frame or base. The ends of the boards should be 1/8' of an inch above your intended surface. This will serve as a guide during sanding. The wood is then coated to harden it. The body was to be of aluminum bent and stretched with a roller and some light hammering to set corners. The aluminum part could then be backed up with plastic or fiberglass for more strength or a rubbery material for sound deadening. The aluminum part cold just be used as a mold, and torn away after use as a mold. This is the point where the making of that will look good and function well is not going to be a problem. The making of the frame and interior can be made so the car does not look like somebody else's car. The use of the original frame is now the limiting factor. Yet there is effort to help me on this one what will be assumed if I change plans.
At about this time I have a chance to get the teletype machine above. From what little I know I know what kinds of devices I will need to make a computer. I am also aware of how primitive it will be. I want it not for anyone to see just so I can do more than what can be done on a adding machine. There is a push to get me to work on it. Not just from my father. I know I would for the most part like to be on my own and do thing as I can by know.
There were many designs over the course over the next 3 years or so as to keep the design original.
The main changes made in the designs after that were with the doors. The first design on the formed body was a gull wing. The Bricklin (pictured above) came out with a gull wing door. It turns out mine was still better, they did not interlock the beam in the door with rest of the frame.
I set my sights on a different design. The next design that I came up with was a slide back design, this type of door was
put on a German Opel in 1975. (Pictured above in yellow. This is the first picture of one I have seen I years.) It never was imported to America I only saw one picture of what was called the Opel GT 2. The next and still the design I would do is to drop the door into the box beam under the door. The Bricklin had a box beam under the door for safety. If the top of the box beam was open, the inside and the outside of the door could be collapsed together and go down inside the beam. The area below the door on a Bricklin was about 14' tall. (Pictured above, the beam is black and notice that you cannot see the bottom of the seat.) This is an important idea, instead being pushed to start with everything new to get a new door design. I just changed one part of the door design. The design is interesting because of being able to drive around with the doors down in the beam i.e. 'doors open'. This was as I said about the time when it started to get easier to generate new ideas.
They hired me back as a mechanic and the Bank let me have a loan for a new car. (a 1974 Mustang II Mach I) It only had the 2300 cubic centimeter 4 cylinder engine in it but that was enough for what it was good at. Everybody new I was not happy and hoped I would be able to settle down. The night I got it home it hailed I was lucky it was light blue. The little dents were small and they could only be seen under lights like a gas station canopy at night. The insurance paid for the loss. The job did not pay as much as in a large garage in a large city. I was called out when the new cars came in to look them over. Some of the drivers would raise a stink as I would start calling attention to what I say. They were responsible for the cars condition. Something happen at the factory and if they do not see it they could be blamed. The boss would tell them we let Bob look them over and we decide what anyone will notice. I thought it worked out well. I learned a lot about how to judge the evenness of shapes. The lines in the brick street made a good back ground pattern to check the body shape against. The picture I should see in the cars paint. Not that it was perfect just that any change as you moved would show up. But, I was allowed to do many things just because I was able to do most things I said I could. I painted a whole car in a garage with racing stripes after fixing up one part that looked real bad. The work I did was good enough they let me paint the whole car and add the rest of the racing stripes it should have had. I could set the points on a car with just my eyes, both the .024 and .018 of an inch to within a couple of 1/10,000 of an inch. (At that time my minimum focal distance is 4 inches the average is ten. I wonder how many people even know?)There were my projects to work on. The gas was still cheap and I was still averaging 30,000 miles a year in my home away from home. At an average speed of about 40 miles per hour, that is a lot of time. This was a major source of my private time.
The price for new parts without an arrangement is prohibitive.
I want to cut the front cross member out of a car with coil springs and start from there. This is the most compact way of doing the front end of a car. Cleaning up any sign of previous welds. I know that type of work will have to be all done by me. I could not pay someone else to be that picky to make my dream car. There were levels to what I would do to the engine. I would draw up plans and do calculation for a cross ram turbocharger 383.
The Bricklin and Car Safety and the frame of a Bricklin.
The Bricklin was sold as a safety car. The frame across the passenger compartment came up to bumper height. There is a beam in the door for more protection for the passengers. This is more protection then was given in any car of the time. My design for the gull wing doors had the doors interlock with the frame. The ends of the beam in the door would stick out of the door in the blue area where they would not be seen. As you can see on the other door in that area there is no beam part of the beam coming out of the door to interlock with the frame. Door latches use to be on the outside of the door. They were put inside the door sheeting so that door would have to be torn for another car to penetrate the passenger compartment. For reference look at the picture Opel Kadett Wagon that was at well over 30 miles an hour side impact. The only thing that kept the truck out of the passenger compartment was the door latch. The V were the door bolt goes inside of the door skin is the stretching point for the whole side of the car. (I had a half a second to brace a brought my shoulders up and only the top of the skull impacted the door. This is why we now have side air bags in some cars.) Still this allowed the truck to penetrate to the point of pushing the seat over. This is not even considering 4 door cars where the 2 doors width is as about as wide as the front of some cars. These should have a system of interlocks that do not have much give to allow for as little penetration into the car as possible.
The Bricklin interior and under the hood.
The engines and the transmissions that the Bricklin used were what could be bought from the auto makers. I the case of his last engine and transmission. The ones from Ford they received the 351 cubic inch Windsor not the 351 cubic inch Cleveland which was the powerhouse engine. The 351 engine is of the family of small block fords that started with the 221 in the early 1960s. This family progress through the following sizes 221 260 289 302 351. This is why a new head was need for high output engines. The Cleveland is very close to being a polyspherical head with much larger valves. The top of the valve covers are much wider on the Cleveland than on the Windsor. The transmission was the Ford FMX automatic transmission not the C-4 or the C-6. The manual for the 1974 Fords say that the FMX transmission was not to be used for taxis or postal delivery cars. Warranty covers normal use and racing is not normal use. If extra restriction are put on there must be at least a more than normal limiting point to the power usage that the transmission can stand. Driving it as if it was a sports car could be a problem. The FM was a cast steel body that cracked under heavy load. There is only a couple of reasons that one might choose these two not know any better, easy of getting them to the plant in Canada, or it is all they would sell them. Since they are both made there and not in the United States. Past a point the parts should be made by the one making the car otherwise one can not count on the best or to be told what the best is.
The seat set low in the car because of relying on the beam below the door for most of the protection from side impact. The use of an interlocking door beam in my design did not require this. I like the use of the beam below the door my first design had two beams side by side at floor level not stacked up. The dash is much the same as my Mustang only not as well color coordinated. The automatic transmission shifter is one sold for use by someone who wants to switch to a floor mounted shifter.
What one makes will be around long after it is really noticed by most.
My own ideas of car safety are from look how smart boy died. He should have thought of that. Fear can be a useful thing.
I wanted to read Should We Have a New Engine a report put out by the Society of Automotive Engineers. The author where from J.P.L. (Jet Propulsion Laboratory. I called up S.A.E. to order the book and they asked if I was a member I said no but they had me on there mailing list for about a year. This gave a list of current problems and a review of engine types and current federally funded programs on alternative engine design. I called up the author at J.P.L. and asked him question at least twice. The one thing that was to both of us a disappointment was that this was all of the experiments that were going on. (The first time I tried to get him on the phone I got through. I later wondered
if it was because my name was Bob Petersen. The publisher of Hotrod magazine is named Bob Petersen. But we had a good talk.) I called him later and we talked again for about 20 minutes. The background information for electric cars is in
there. Facts like the Peak Rating for (6 seconds) can be 3.5 times the continuous rating. It is hard to find a motor above 10 horse power but if you can Peak the motor to get going or to pass someone you should be able to power
Vega, Pinto or Bug. The in the book the Vega is said to require 14 Horse Power to go 70 M.P.H.. Wind resistance goes up with the square of the velocity; so 50 M.H.P. should be attainable. These 'little facts' that all of a
sudden make something possible show the necessity of being thorough and the possible rewards.
The use of Ammonia as a fuel was one of the things I researched at this time. The reasoning was if there are two pollutants get rid of one and improve the other. The Nitrogen Oxides are caused by high temperatures and unburned
Hydrocarbons by not enough Oxygen or low temperatures. These two are hard to deal with at the same time. The book dealt with Hydrogen as a fuel. It would be hard to store. It does not smell and it is combustible at even 1 part 40 of
air. That means that it could not be detected till it explodes. Ammonium smells and small leaks can be absorbed by water. The idea of double walling tanks that surround and cushion the inner ammonia tank with water. The idea of using this for fueling a car will stop, but the their systems will find there way into other projects. The ideas generated will find application and variation of principle elsewhere also. (One of the variations was with fluorocarbon use.)
While working on the garbage route I needed a different car so I got a white Opel GT. The car looks something like a small Corvette and it has good power a 1900 cc engine. That will not be around area at the start of the emissions standards. (The engine is how Isuzu got there foot in the door by providing the engine for the Opels.)
The car's ugly design feature is that the roof does not set flat. The front of the roof is higher than the back end. The front of the roof would have to come forward in order to move the front of the roof down. Where I liked the seat in the car was laying back. (I measured it once and I got in and out of it often.) The inside height was high enough that my hat could stay on in the car. (The hat extends about 2 inches above my head.) There was a import auto salvage yard that had three wrecked Opel GTs. It would be possible with two extra tops to make a longer top by using two section made from the longer front and logger back section of the two roofs. (This way I would not be cutting the old roof off until I got the other roof done right.) The windows trimmed the appearance would be altogether different. The idea of a T top roof with two removable section to extend the roof forward and down. There was some small damage done to the front of the front bumper and the sheet metal behind it. The metal was joined by a seam that came out almost 1/2 inch in front of that round surface. I have a set of body shop hammers and anvils so I went ahead started to work on it. The metal was fairly thick and it worked real easily and the I got the dent. I decide to separate the top and the bottom of the front end. I chisel the sections apart and begin to hammer both the top and bottom sections out flat. I straighten out the 90 degree bend that formed the seam. The nose then came to a point and has a much more racey Corvette appearance.
I wanted to put away a engine for this car. The front cross member is removable and the motor mount are mounted on "posts" that come up from the bottom of the member. I bought another cross member so I could cut it to height and put on another set of motor mount. The engine was to be a 250 cubic inch Pontiac Overhead Cam. I would not with that size engine need to turbocharger it but it could be done. I had bought 2 engines and was looking for a 4-speed to fit. When I found the sagnaw transmission and the linkage it was on a 67 Firebird. I popped the hood and it had a 230 High Output engine in it. This engine was something for a straight 6. A Thermoquad 4 barrel carb, dual valve springs, split exhaust manifold feeding dual exhaust and of course a better cam. The 3 heads would now allow me to cut one head up. This head is cut so that you can see how thick the metal is around each intake and exhaust and what the "line of air flow is". This question showed it's importance on the 426 before the 426D Hemi engine, the earlier engine had very open intakes. They still did not seem to put enough power. What was discovered was that the flow along the bottom intake was coming straight at the intake valve. This part of the flow was cutting off the rest of the air flow at high speed. They made actual gave it a smaller intake passage made the whole passage slowly bend down toward the valve. I had a torque tube that fit, the front and rear cross members, a GM cross flow radiator,and a spare hood. (Total spent $265) This would have been quite a project car. The car weighed around 2000 pounds.
Bob L. Petersen
Something far short of this and not as sharp looking could normally be the fastest thing on the road. After that what is the point. A car of your own design.
The was some drawing of planes before the start of work on cars but it was not as good as the design work after cars. There would be no space plane without it. This will be the start of my thinking about what I can realistically do with metals, chemicals i.e. fuels, gadgets and machines. This is a small part of the list I will be adding to it over time. There is no thing outside the box one simply moves around the box. At some point you will find you are outside where the old box was.
My 1974 Mustang II Mach I was light blue.
The 1974 Mustang II Mach I had a 2300 cubic centimeter 4 cylinder engine in it. I had what I would have considered my hot rod a home in the form of my Dodge that I could have built if I wanted to. Not the 2600 cubic centimeter V-6 the that the 1974 Mach Is normally had in them. There were always looks like that is not a sports car at stop lights. It got pretty sickening. I cut off the muffler leaving only the small resonator and installed a flared chrome tube to get the exhaust out from under the car. I did not like a noise car but if I push on the gas I do not want to hear the carburetor sucking air. I want to hear the output. I bought the high power kit for the carburetor. I measured their jet compare to mine and then purchased the next size bigger jet. This does not mean I would be losing gas mileage in fact if the mixture is better the mileage should go up. I had opened the exhaust when I took off the muffler. With these modifications it was finally more than a gloried Pinto. The reared was a 3.5 to 1 and low gear was also 3.5 to 1. The small steel belted radial tires made the gearing appear lower compared to a large car with large tires. Standard tires at the time were about 28 inches tall the tires on my car were shorter by about 15 present shorter a speed. The tires on the front had a lot of weight on them and at correct pressure the tires looked much flatter. These were my first radials so I asked if that was OK. They said they look like that. I reasoned if the fronts could stand that curvature then the backs should also. I adjusted the back tire pressures down till they had the same curvature. This made the tire much shorter. Someone got to racing their motor next to me and I popped my clutch and took him at the light. The gears and tires plus the work meant I had a real good first gear. I would go though first and back off before they found out that was it. This worked well tell I ran into a 440 Charger with a 727 torqueflite he power braked. His tires were smoking before he let his foot off the brake. Left me in the dust on his way to the gas station. Twenty six miles per gallon on the highway and still able to get around quickly.
Bob L. Petersen